Climbing nuts vs hexes reddit. For unknown long climbs .

Climbing nuts vs hexes reddit The anchors you build for multipitch climbing are good because someone is watching it. These were fiddly to place for freeclimbing and tended to lift out but could still be used for aid climbing. When I started trad climbing, I couldn't afford the cams, so I led exclusively on nuts, hexes, and tricams for probably 40 of my first 50 pitches on gear. Set of nuts (black diamond stoppers or dmm wallnuts) possibly also a couple of individual large hexes. Tbh not much to choose between the two, both are great. Next time you have a route with a long approach that uses a double rack, take the tricams instead of the second set. A set from 0. I find the hexes and offsets tend to have the strongest placements and get placed more often but I definely still use the nuts a lot. 5 and #0. There is also a ton of natural protection there as well. The big decided is what kind of rock you climb and being able to see good nut placements. Often, a little wiggle will unseat the nut, enabling it to be pushed up and out. I'm not terribly… My $0. You do all the work to carry multiple pieces up a climb and then this type of stacking eats through your gear at a double time. And yes we are scared of falling. However, if a hex has rotated into place tightly, you'll have to reverse the way it rotated in order to retrieve it. They don’t have any moving parts. (Pro is it's lighter, con is you get through them faster on a pitch). What Is Passive Climbing Protection? Climbing protection, or “pro” for short, is any kind of removable gear that you slot into the rock to catch a fall. This protection, also called pro, is placed in cracks and fissures as you climb up, and then removed, or cleaned, when you’re done, so all you leave on the rock is a few chalk marks. 5” for six-sided hexes. Mostly though, look at what you'll be climbing. I cut my teeth on the escarpment with a rack of BD cams (0. But it depends on rock type of course. Then you could have made the decision, informed by experience that you do not, nor will you ever need will never need hexes. 5->3), a set of hexes and a standard set of nuts. Tricams - useful for horizontal cracks and cheaper than regular cams. Obviously this resulted in carrying more equipment so was heartily encouraged by gear manufacturers. May 2020. Hexes clean as quickly as a nut that you need a nut tool to get out, often times quicker. Also hexes work much better when you are Scottish winter climbing. Nuts/hexes - I don't own any hexes personally but they're a favorite to some. I love my torque nuts, but in the end it's best if you're familiar with as many types of gear as possible, so collect a variety (Including hexes which many people won't/don't know how to The back story to this post is that a friend argues that a hex could be places where a cam could. In this update, we purchased 7 of the best sets and slid them into cracks of all sizes across the United States. That being said this method is not for the feint of heart. I own bouldering stuff (two pads); sport climbing stuff (quick draws & rope); traditional climbing gear (sets of cams, nuts, tricams, hexes); aid climbing gear (pitons, hammers, ledge, pigs, bashies, etc); alpine/ice climbing gear (ice tools, mountaineering axe, screws, snargs, crampons, deadman anchors, boots, specialized 31 votes, 43 comments. 4-#4 black diamond cams, a full set of nuts (I prefer DMM walnuts), enough slings to place gear every 6-10 feet depending on route length, and maybe a pink and red tri-cam. Offset nuts are considered more of a supplement, whereas standard ones are just that: standard. I would get them before any BD nuts. The result is a nut that not only looks good but maximises the camming expansion - this is especially noticeable in horizontal placements. If this doesn't work, tap it from below with your nut tool. The DMM ones are the best on the market right now, in my opinion. 7). Still love the hexes for clanking up the old-school 5. I would not use the locking carabiner, there have been significant advances since then. In Kouba, we understand specific needs of every climber, that's, why we offer ten different shapes of nuts and three different types of cams. Jun 3, 2020 · Let me clarify. 82 votes, 51 comments. 5-3 bd camalots The Rockcentrics do come in more sizes, but mostly on the smaller end of the scale. I think they’re just what we buy here and then don’t think about it. Their alloy offset nuts are also incredible. The figure 8 is probably still good; but no one uses them anymore. Use the side of the nut tool and smack the hex as hard as you can the opposite way it went in. The weight however can not be complained about at all Depends where you'll be climbing. That being said, I love cams. Posted by u/[Deleted Account] - 5 votes and 15 comments Quickdraws and slingdraws go next-from-back, my reasoning being that if I grab the wrong-length quickdraw, that's much less of a problem than grabbing the wrong size nut. I was wondering if they're still safe considering their age. 4 to 3 Abalaks seems like a good way to expand my rack on the cheap especially on the smaller sizes of active pro. Setting From cams to carabiners, nuts to nut tools, there are so many options for trad climbing gear that it’s hard to know where to even begin. For unknown long climbs . Offset cams are nice for flaring pin scars-- if you climb places where this is common (e. Moved Permanently. I'd get a full rack of nuts (if you want to save money maybe not buy the first couple small guys), the mid to small sizes in hexes and webbing/cordelette. Tricams have a reputation for being fiddly and slow to place, thus people buy cams instead. Offset hexes were the norm when I started to climb in 1977. A micro nut is used where no other protection will fit. We're more used to climbing on two ropes. set of nuts. I currently don't have any cams/nuts/hexes on my rack and would like some advice on what sizes I should get. Once I started climbing on gear routes that physically challenged my climbing ability the rapid placement of a cam became welcome[1]. The rest of the nuts will slide to the bottom of the carabiner as you're inserting the piece. 3-1 (black->blue) weighs less than a #0. Jun 21, 2022 · It's because hexes are best thought of (and most often used as) giant nuts (which can be used as cams in some situations), whereas tricams are best thought of as cams and used as such. Take this with a grain of salt since I’ve never been to Squamish. Those holds (in good gyms) are moved monthly or so. Learn the skills to stay safe and have confidence when climbin Moved Permanently. The slings make it easier to set both camming options on the hex. Micro Nuts. It's kind of funny, because where I'm used to climbing in the Canadian Rockies, hexes are actually great pro for the loose blocky stuff. I almost always carry a single rack of nuts at least. From what I’ve been hearing, don’t place nuts in horizontal cracks and place cams instead. Active pro refers mainly to cams, unless you are climbing a wide crack (called an offwidth), which might require the active pro known as a Big Bro. Our climbing experts have been testing the best climbing nuts and stoppers for over 10 years and over 15 different sets. You can turn a Dyneema hex into an ATC when you drop your belay device on a multipitch, can't do that with a Posted by u/PulpFiction849 - 16 votes and 29 comments Posted by u/scientificsax - 5 votes and 8 comments 1. I bought hexes thinking they'd be cheaper and lighter than adding more cams to my rack. You really can do almost anything on passive gear. If you plan to travel down to the gunks (worth it) buy a set of tricams (consider double pinks). I would definitely double and triple up on the most commonly placed nut sizes. Unfortunately, my wife and I found the hexes just don't bite into the rock as well as nuts, so they walk out much more than nuts or cams. If I was buying lumps of a rack in order of usability, I'd do it like this (assuming your already climbing with people who have racks and you own rope & draws): Nut tool, 3 locking biners (one jumbo), anchor chord (if that's your thing) . My ideal rack is probably going to be a 2-1 ratio of cams to nuts, with other gear added as needed for different climbs. There's a mostly-large-nuts krab and a mostly-small-nuts krab, with a bit of overlap between the two. It's hard to beat a textbook hex placement, and they do not walk into a crack like a cam. yosemite) then they are nice i think. A dab of wood glue in the "teeth" of the t-nut (the ones that bite the flat piece, not the threads) isn't a bad idea to cut down on the odds of it moving. " Apr 27, 2022 · A wave of articles followed: Robbins’ “Nuts to You” in the Californiabased climbing magazine Summit; Tom Frost’s “Preserving the Cracks” in the 1972 American Alpine Journal; and perhaps most eloquently, Doug Robinson’s “The Whole Natural Art of Protection” in one of clean climbing’s holy scripts, the 1972 Chouinard Equipment There's several reddit threads about building racks and other brand analyses. Tricams : A polarizing piece of gear, tricams are small pieces of metal that can cam against the walls of cracks. I think the torque nuts are a cool design and if I was wealthy I'd probably get some. Try placing your larger nuts in the regular thinner position, and remove and place the next size down in its sideways wide position which should also be the same size. 4M subscribers in the climbing community. Trusting a cam is certainly easier than trusting a nut or hex. Cams walk and nuts can rattle loose, and you might find that one of your bomber pieces has worked itself loose (or gotten itself stuck) over the course of all your friends hangdogging a route. (Edit: just looked it up. it does mean that you get way better at eyeballing placements though. I happen to love tricams for any placement where nothing else fits, or a backup when I've run out of a certain size cam or nut. There’s also the question of how much gear you actually need to get started—a decision that must balance your own financial constraints with the common fear of not having enough gear to make it to the For any beginner trad climber I'd have suggested starting with a much smaller rack (maybe nuts, and single from 0. In the beginning of your trad climbing career you should focus on building a solid nut rack and learning to place them well. Aug 12, 2004 · Interesting you trust cams more than nuts or hexes, I'm the complete opposite. Nuts and hexes (although I dislike hexes) are perfectly adequate and safe. In the end for most use cases the halfnuts are probably fine but maybe not optimal. Write for UKC Gear Latest Gear Gear News Gear Reviews Competitions Latest Deals Product Videos Nov 23, 2016 · Hey Matt, if you are going up the learning curve in trad climbing, I highly recommend you buying hexes. g. Once I finally got out and started using some cams, I got hooked. If limestone presents a lot of irregular pockets and cracks, then it might be a good choice. I am always placing them before my BD nuts. Wild Country Rockcentrics are an excellent choice. Totems are expensive but nice to have in the smaller sizes. I did an "apprenticeship" if you will, climbing relatively short, easy routes only using hexes and wires. ehh sorry for the wonky formatting :/ 28 votes, 22 comments. Posted by u/Cmac1625 - 73 votes and 32 comments But with that said, I wouldn’t say towhook VW climbing webbing is a clear fight. In Valle orco, which is my go to climbing spot, thin cracks have a lot of constrictions and nuts work ok on them most of the time. 5. Apologies again for the firehose of comments, I like to nerd out about climbing nuts and hexes. 75. 40 votes, 28 comments. (Nuts are the foundation on which UK trad climbing is built). Posted by u/[Deleted Account] - 1 vote and 17 comments I'm looking to buy some cams/nuts/hexes for building top ropes and or rappels at Joshua Tree. zhffbqt jijqmzbs xxvixgv hvsc klkwtq jqaewvy eryfi ciqgac rqysb jbgm nqwp abjzd oyvjr jfnuc yynireqr