Dmm offset nuts review reddit DMM offset nuts and the biggest offset brass. 4M subscribers in the climbing community. Assuming they have a full sport rack I'd go with 6x mammut contact slings, bd c4s . I'd say go for some DMM offsetts if you're looking for more nuts. 75-3 range, a set of dmm offset alloys, ange L on all the cams and a dmm leashed nut tool. However, if you're looking to take advantage of Christmas, I'd say you can't go wrong with bd . Business, Economics, and Finance. So, the much awaited DMM Alloy Offsets, good, but in their current form far from perfect (see STOP PRESS at the end of this review). Not really - I climb in Yosemite and the Sierra too and I rarely need more than one each of any nuts on free routes. Irregular is better. 5 cam or larger, so why carry a nut that large? 1. Enjoy the videos and music you love, upload original content, and share it all with friends, family, and the world on YouTube. Many people will condescendingly say that passive pro is only enjoyed bt people doing easy trad but I take nuts on projects that are above my current sport grade too. . I would pay retail for those nuts instead of buying BD nuts. Has anyone had a chance to try out the new BD Offset Stoppers? How do they compare to the DMM ones. If it is inward and upward flaring, you can use any kind of nut, but an offset might be a safer bet because it can be set in place to prevent it from moving. Black Diamond C4 cams, used from Mountain Project, 0. DMM offset alloys and brassies are a cheaper option than a whole set of offset cams. I often bring with me the WC Superlight rock, Superlight Offset Rock and DMM Peenut and it gives a full set of regular nuts with many options in offset cracks. GameStop Moderna Pfizer Johnson & Johnson AstraZeneca Walgreens Best Buy Novavax SpaceX Tesla. A more experienced friend recommended substituting them with the DMM alloy offsets #7-11 combined with the DMM peenuts #1-5. The home of Climbing on reddit. 17K subscribers in the tradclimbing community. A great set of nuts, but the offset isn't as dramatic as you might think. Do your partner a favor and rack the totems with BD colored Most people say a standard rack is doubles of BD #0. I think having a nut rack combined of these two would be perfect for the budding trad climber. Totems in their smaller sizes are great as well. Here is the list: Cams. However, a partner has DMM offsets and to get something different I got BD offsets and the BD's offsets are junk. i personally have the DMM offsets and the wildcountry offset rocks. Every size of Alloy Offset has a robust 12kN strength rating. The DMM Brass Offsets are consistently some of the best performing nuts in small flares and cracks. 1x DMM Dynema Sling 8mm (60 cm) 1x DMM Dynema Sling 8mm (120 cm) 1x DMM Dynema Sling 8mm (240 cm) Rope Looking for DMM brass offset nuts. DMM alloy offset + DMM peenuts or DMM/BD brassies) especially if you have any plans to get into aid climbing. I think it should be their next thing to do. I have been working on building anchors and placing active/passive pro because I really want to trad climb. I don't even carry standard nuts because they fit in so many more places better. I’ve been trad climbing for a while on my friends rack and am looking to start building my own. I have a friend who climbs in JTree a lot, and he swears to them so presumably there is a geological feature there that eats them as well. 10 trad climbing as well as alpine stuff. 5 and 0. 1 is, I wonder about the advice, if I should even bother getting it for free climbing or skip to a ball nut set or passive pro only in the little sizes. All offset models certainly do better in these types of fissures, including the DMM Brass Offset, along with the DMM Alloy Offset and DMM Peenut. Nov 23, 2021 · 3: half nuts. Some find them hard to clean, but I don't really. supplement with friends and zero friends. I paid retail for a full set of DMM offsets (alloy and brass) and #1-11 wallnuts over getting BD nuts at cost. Wild country helium carabiners for everything Offset cams are expensive. 1x DMM Dragon Cam (2) 1x DMM Dragon Cam (3) 1x DMM Dragon Cam (4) Nuts. Edelrid Kevlar sling for slinging chocks and threads. But I found a deal on backcountry for Wild Country nuts 1-8 for $35 and 6-10 for $50, a total of $85 for 1-10 plus extras of the 6, 7, and 8. DMM offsets are seriously rad. Camp Tricams, but only double up at the Gunks. 3 double length slings as well Get some nuts and that will probably carry you into plenty of 5. If you are getting a second set, it'd be much more useful to get a set of offset nuts (e. You will very rarely come across a placement thats too small for a black totem and that doesnt take nuts. I mean most lines of cams (Friends, Dragons, Camalots) have the same color scheme these days. The fact that Wallnuts share the same color scheme as the rest of the Wild Country and DMM Offset Nut makes adding pieces to your rack a breeze. But it depends on rock type of course. DMM offsets are great nuts but there's only 5 of them, so if you buy a set of regular nuts (DMM wallnuts are again awesome, but most brands of nuts are also good to great) you'll have 10 more pieces. In situations that are too flaring for that, just look for another spot or keep going. I hung out with a professional guide in JTree for a bit who only had offsets for his climbing there, since the majority of cracks are flaring, water-made cracks. Dec 13, 2009 · If you are a beginner these nuts seat well and are less prone to popping out. Crypto I've climbed around boulder, and have been really happy. Crypto Posted by u/seal_eggs - 6 votes and 18 comments I pretty much have your rack but with offset nuts, some smaller gear, and no 5 and 6. It is mostly DMM because that’s what we mainly sell at my job and I can get a good deal on all of it. i place an offset nut 4 times for every regular nut, and feel like i could skip the regular nuts altogether and rarely miss them. All friends in the 1-4 range (doubled) and then a single BD 5 and 6. If you are going to get cams now there is no need to get hexs as they will just not get used if you have a cams of a similar sizes. 19K subscribers in the tradclimbing community. DMM Alloy Offsets for trad climbing Asymmetrical offset nuts for rock protection Durable alloy offset stoppers for climbers Lightweight offset nuts for thin cracks Color-coded DMM Alloy Offsets for easy use Grooved face design for secure placements Strong 12kN strength DMM offset nuts Ideal offset protection for various terrains Unique tapered design for challenging routes . DMM Offset nuts. 5-3 or a set of dmm offset nuts. 3-3 cams (Wild Country Friends use the same numbers and colors, DMM Dragons use the same colors), full set of nuts, 8-12 alpine draws (60 cm sling + two wire gates), QuickDraws (trad draws are lighter than sport draws), and anchor-building materials (cordelettes, slings, lockers). It was a nut, on sale, in the only climbing shop I knew at the time, so I bought it. 3 and up, and really really love the 0. Totems. Sep 30, 2016 · My granite climbing rack with the DMM Offset Nuts supplemented with a few others. I did that and then filled in with master cams and c3's for smaller sizes, and DMM offset nuts. The nuts rarely get placed but are DMM peanuts and wild country nuts. Anything larger than the big blue offset should be a 0. I've found offsets to a significant degree but not quite as much in sandstone, basalt and quartzite also. Single or double set, depending on length of routes, and how often you actually use them. You should be climbing with a partner that brings their set of c4s so it's likely that you will have doubles in the c4 range. 1, its a toss up between z4s and dragonflies, but black diamond is a shitty company, so buy used or buy DMM As small as a . I've been thinking about doubling my big cams with DMM Dragons from 00 to 6. Additionally they will match the DMM offsets which everyone also swears by (BD now makes offset nuts, never tried em tho). Where I climb in the Sierra I rarely take my normal nuts as my offsets are that much better. I also run DMM offsets, I feel okay about them. That said, they are among the most difficult to clean. Nice haul! Now you just need a couple more trad draws, a few more nuts or offsets (unless you climb south western US) 2-3 single length slings (for extending cams without wasting a draw, or anchor building) 1 double length sling for bolt anchors/misc. offset nuts and offset cams might be a better purchase if you are doing anything with pin scars. Jan 6, 2020 · Cams just don't tend to fit as well in smaller pin scars and flares, and thus a nut is required. The DMMs 1-11 are $110. He has the 1-11 DMM Wallnuts which I really enjoy and was considering buying. I own a full set of offsets and bd nuts and very rarely carry any more than a few bd except for doubles in common sizes. Mostly though, look at what you'll be climbing. A little history first: I bought my first HB Offset in I think 1991 – mainly because I didn't know any better. If you're pretty sure you've got a lot of placements for these in your region (that is, if you have a lot of flared cracks), go ahead and pick some up; otherwise, look at a more traditional set of nuts. Skip the BD stoppers, also ‘meh’. Related Searches. g. Pins were usually pounded in with that same degree of upward tilt, so the scars give placements that result in the optimum pull direction for your offset nuts. Probably 2 more alpine draws DMM Wall Nuts DMM Offset Nuts DMM Brass Micro Offsets for soft rock Black Diamond iron/copper micro offsets for hard rock Ball nuts 1-3 for the rare thin parallel crack Alpine draws made from those Metolius slings with the non-snag tags. The offsets seem to be the best bang for the buck when balancing faff factor, ease of use, and cost. ) and have a bit of a gap between sizes (I infill this gap with a Jan 6, 2020 · Cams just don't tend to fit as well in smaller pin scars and flares, and thus a nut is required. 75. Offset models are also generally harder to clean because they are asymmetric - they don't want to rotate upwards Offset cams are nice for flaring pin scars-- if you climb places where this is common (e. For 0. , a couple spare non-locking biners for anchors or using all your cams - and learn to use clove hitches and rely less on the PAS. If you were to get these nuts, I’d recommend complimenting them with a set of offset nuts. 9/10 it will make absolutely no difference. 4 days ago · The red stopper is compared to the nut head of an offset nut. 3-4 with doubles in the . 18K subscribers in the tradclimbing community. 1 cam next? brassies? offset nuts? Ball nuts? If I do go with the . 5-3 on c4's and a set of nuts too, that's a good starter rack. Unless a route specifically calls for extra small cams, I dont take anything smaller than a black totem. Posted by u/deadphish1 - 9 votes and 35 comments 29 votes, 54 comments. 1x DMM Halfnut Set 1-11 Slings. 83 votes, 27 comments. Very confidence inspiring and it's nice to see they make all their gear in house and not in a Chinese factory that I have a set of BD nuts, DMM offset nuts, BD C4s from 0. I climbed on some DMM offset nuts and liked them quite a bit in Red Rocks (NV). DMM Dragonflies in the three smallest sizes. One of my trad friends says his BD #1 stopper is his most useful one. Climb with your partners and figure out what works for you. I have a set of DMM offsets and I am thinking the brass offset micros would be the most versitile as the offsets can be places well enough where a non-offset can be places but has the added benefit of also being places in offset situations. Moved Permanently. Personally I think nuts and hexes are great, and not just for easy stuff. 1 cam what model do you recommend? I learned on them and really don't see them as lower quality. I wish I would have purchased all dmm cams after using those nuts and seeing that dmm factory tour video. Posted by u/Infinite_Toilet - 2 votes and 18 comments I purchased some dmm offset nuts and the quality and care into the design and manufacture that goes into them is astounding. Reasoning: I like the half nuts but I prioritize efficiency over style, and thus rarely place nuts. And I really love them nuts. DMM Offset Nuts DMM Wallnuts WC Helium 10cm Draws x6 Mammut UL dyneema slings, 60cm, x6, w/ wiregate carabiners NAH BRO. com Aug 9, 2020 · Maybe someday DMM will update the Alloy Offset with 4 tapered curvy shapes and lighter design. DMM Peanuts as an option, since they weigh nothing. Alloy Offsets protect irregular and flared cracks that regular nuts cannot. 4-4 random rigid stem cams from Facebook old nuts sport draws nylon runners, 60cm, with any carabiners Offset nuts are considered more of a supplement, whereas standard ones are just that: standard. Use in conjunction with Wallnuts for compre DMM offset nuts and peenuts - I can’t even remember the last time I racked up with a regular nut set I love the Z4s a ton, especially in 0. regular nuts if im in an area that takes them well. 3 to 3, plus a few C3s (micros) in 0-2. Question using offset nuts I got a pro set of BD stoppers for a gift, I've used them for a little bit, they're fine. Anybody know why DMM and BD offset nuts stop at BD #11 or equivalent? I'd totally be down with a #12 and #13 offset nut. Someone to teach you how to use this and smack you upside the head when you do poor placements DMM Alloy Offsets (double in the yellow - #7?) and the largest DMM offset brassy or two. I have small offset nuts but what do people think about normal small nuts. They are slightly more likely to get stuck 2 colors of nail polish. BD offset micro nuts are decent though. Small meaning Black diamond 1-4 stoppers or DMM micro wallnuts. double rack of totems, red, yellow, and blue dmm dragonflys, a wild country friend #3 and #4, dmm offset nuts, and wild country superlight rocks. Should I be spending on a . I would also recomend the dmm offset nuts they are just a fantastic addition to a growing rack. And those nuts are superlight. DMM offsets are popular, though I prefer a the Wild Country Superlight Offset Rocks paired with the Superlight half nuts (non-offset) sets. I almost always carry a single rack of nuts at least. Oct 31, 2024 · Most offset climbing nuts, like the DMM Alloy Offset, the DMM Peenut, and the Black Diamond Offset don't do as well in more parallel-sided cracks, but that's okay as most people are more likely to place a cam in these places anyway. I've heard good things about the Dragons, and from what I understand the colors match and the ranges overlap nicely with the BD C4s. I'm running old Tango "made by Hudy Sports" nuts, and I recently realized that they are actually offset in one plane and parallel in another plane. All my nuts are DMM (walnuts+offsets) but I can't say I have noticed a difference when leading on my partners set of BD nuts. Depending where you’re from and what you’re going to be climbing will dictate what you have on your rack. The wires they are mounted on are set into a recess to reduce wear, while larger sizes have holes that reduce weight. In reality buy whichever you like. Title says it really. From there it's going to depends on what and where you are climbing. I am a big fan of the DMM alloy offsets, but there are BD offset stoppers as well. You get to double up on the middle sizes, they’re not as aggressively offset so they still work well in normal placements, and they’re significantly lighter. yosemite) then they are nice i think. Tricams are fine occasionally, but I'd look to get some small cams (I like mastercams and c3s as a balancing set). Start marking your gear on non-wear metal surfaces (biner recesses, flat top of the cam lobe, etc) so it's easier to sort out. American that usually is aiding or climbing granite. it's dangerous. The only route I can remember being happy to have offset nuts at the gunks was Fly Again for the section right off the ledge. For those that trust the reviews outdoorgearlab has a review of the black diamond nut and the best nuts of 2022. I have been borrowing my buddies passive… id also get either the trango or BD offset nuts. the WC dont seem to fit very often, and at least in pictures the trango or BD look closer to the DMM. I want to get a new set of nuts and have really like the DMM Offset nuts but the BD ones look just the same with the benefit of the color coding matching the standard BD ones. They are weaker than brassies but a different shape. I do it the same way as you OP with double rack of totems from black to purple and then a single green totem with a single wild country . For example a basic rack for British climbing would include a set of nuts, a set of offset nuts, a set of cams(00-5 in DMM sizes),a few slings, assorted quickdraws and alpine draws, prussic cord and a nut key. Traditional climbing: use at your own risk. Anyway, as I mentioned they come in a set of 5 (smaller offset nuts are available in brass much like the original RP’s), each is rated to 12 kN, they range in size from 12 to 23mm (size 7 to 11), colour coded, are not inexpensive (about $16 ea. See full list on outdoorgearlab. View community ranking In the Top 1% of largest communities on Reddit Posted by u/freewarefreak - 8 votes and 65 comments I know the DMM nut color coding by heart now, but honestly I prefer the BD way of using the same color coding on both their cams and nuts. My rack stands alone as a majority the time my partner doesn't have a rack or doesn't have small enough gear like micro nuts. So I'm seeking potential burner nuts or replacement for the Trango In situations were you have a slightly flaring crack, you can just place a nut lengthwise. And yes we are scared of falling. The document has moved here. twy zcgu jozr sumox indpe qsbnppb imcpnf zizsl rkok tmj