Rock climbing training reddit read rock climbing training manual by Anderson bros, 3. Not necessarily because he's the best, his ethos just seems to make sense to me. Now that im stuck home all day I want to actually start a training schedule that I can from home so I'll be ready and stronger than ever when I actually get back I usually climb twice a week and hangboard once or twice a week (would climb more but hard with a young family). We would like to show you a description here but the site won’t allow us. Honestly there are a lot of ways to get better at climbing, the single most important thing is, to avoid injury. But you can also do routes / boulders that target certain muscle groups more and therefore develop most of the things you need to get stronger for climbing. true. Assuming your primary goal is to improve climbing, I’d try schedule climbing days after rest days or easy cardio sessions. the training weight training, if done properly, will not interfere with your climbing so you can keep making these climbing gains you may not be climbing harder grades because of the weight lifting but the movements you do on the wall will feel more controlled giving you more mental capacity to focus on technique on your limit movements Technique is easily 75% of climbing on slopers, but the rest is definitely power. After you get a decent base of both strength and technique it gets more difficult to increase strength by just climbing. Reddit's rock climbing training community. Discuss NANBF/IPE, INBF/WNBF, OCB, ABA, INBA/PNBA, and IFPA bodybuilding, noncompetitive bodybuilding, diets for the natural lifters, exercise routines and more! 40 votes, 23 comments. Training philosophy in climbing is full of people reinventing the wheel, under slightly different names, or slightly different rationales. So: I climb 2 times a week, always on Tuesdays and Thursdays, can't change that - section. My lifts are similar, I single leg Bulgarian squat, OHP, weighed pull-ups, horizontal row, dips, and variety of rotator cuff lifts done at a low weight (I tore my shoulder a few years ago). you should keep it at 2 times a week at most in my opinion. Dedicated to increasing all our… What are your thoughts on the climbing ability of coaches with respect to their clients? I don't know how I'd feel about someone who themselves were not climbing harder than I, unless they had a sports science degree or climbing-coaching related certs or some other experience, but I don't know if that's the result of irrational, internalized elitism or a legitimate thought. If you can do BOTH and also make sure you are recovering well, then rock on. 5-2 hours on Wednesday, training climbing as per Louis Parkinsons recommendations. However, many climbers I know found climbing as their main source of exercise, and while pure barbell work isn't going to increase climbing strength after a point, general fitness (and subsequently, climbing fitness) will be greatly improved by reaching the milestones that Steve Maisch lays out in his article. Hangboards and no hang devices are the best substitutes for long periods of no climbing, 6 weeks is actually a great timeframe for a training cycle too! I'd like to bring up that this is a really fucking annoying answer, which always comes up when people ask this. . , 80% and 45%, but it's better to know the entire spectrum. Weekend warrior's Looking to really step up my training in the next few weeks. At your climbing and training age, the two things I'd recommend are pull up progressions, and ab work of your choice. Everything else is really Reddit's rock climbing training community. buy a training plan for an easy start (assuming you want to get started right now training and have $$$), 2. What I meant was that this is beneficial because of the increased stress on connective tissue as well as the position specific (isometric) strength of the fingers/forearm Adding this routine on top of your existing climbing is a reasonable increase in training volume, as opposed to a huge jump that'll lead to injury. As a coach the best part is working directly with people. My training beside climbing within the 12 weeks Should I be trying more hard climbs rather than spending See full list on rei. 11ish climber currently, been climbing for almost 6 years, just looking for something structured to keep me stoked and training hard. 9 out of 10 Climbers Make the Same Mistakes by Dave Macleod ClimbingTechniques - Website with lots of rock climbing basics and info Terminology I've managed to push through plateaus by alternating my focus (plateaus at around v6 and v8 outside) from climbing a lot w a little training (and getting injured more) to climbing less but still a good amount but with more training (and generally staying healthier). A place for for those who believe that proper diet and intense training are all you need to build an amazing physique. A session usually lasts around 3-3. com If you are replacing climbing with strength training, and your goal is to improve climbing, then that is not so good. The load builds up by 2kg per week over 8 weeks. Climbing sessions vary depending on where I am in my training cycle. 128 votes, 19 comments. But hey, I'm pretty happy that I'm able to climb again after this little time. If you had someone with zero climbing experience train only weighted hangs on 20mm edges for a decade, they may achieve v12+ grades based on lattice data, but imagine how they would look on the rock. For pullups, you can start by using a band or pulley system to remove weight, or by working the negative (aka start with your chin on the bar, and try to lower yourself slowly). I just read it for the second time a few months ago, and was much more impressed with it the second time around. Training your crushing grip strength as part of a well rounded hand/forearm prehab/strength protocol is great, training it as a substitute for climbing is not. Dedicated to increasing all our… I think there’s a distinction between limit moves, limit sequences, and limit Boulders, where limit boulders you can maybe link some of the moves but the entire problem feels like the limit of your ability, limit sequences where you can maybe do some of the moves individually but linking all of them feels at the limit of your ability, and limit moves where the actual move feels like it’s Reddit's rock climbing training community. And as for your question, people usually recommend to start hangboarding after you've climbed for 1 year AND are solid on V5's. Recently a friend told me he does 1 problem 4 times in a row, rests, then does a different climb 4 times, going from the hardest problem to the easiest. When I lift, I do A: bench/row/squat B: press/weighted chins/deadlift. 75 votes, 23 comments. You will make huge "gains" in your climbing ability just by practicing more. 101 votes, 20 comments. 174K subscribers in the climbharder community. I think if you read Education of a Bodybuilder, and used that to make a hypertrophy focused hangboard protocol, you'd just end up with the RCTM program (or "density hangs"). Climbing to Training ratio was about 50:50, though I could have (and maybe should have) altered my strength training exercises to be on wall/rock. This could be useful if you're training for a specific route or rock formation. I have been climbing for about two years now and really enjoy it. While climbing, I don't feel any pain at all anymore. 172K subscribers in the climbharder community. That's lame af if that's happened to you. Also, it allows newer climbers to improve their finger strength faster while still primarily climbing. maybe helpful to tweak a training routine a bit if youre noticeably weaker at something, thats it. Rock Climbing Technique: The Practical Guide to Movement Mastery by John Kettle - A book of exercises to improve climbing movement. Re-injury is a big thing on my mind, so I focus on how to support my weight and move up the wall with as little strength as possible. practice finger board warm ups before climbing and make sure you space out your days. g. I currently own: The Climbing Bible, Training for Climbing (Eric Hörst), 9/10 climbers, Beastmaking, and Rock Climbing Essential Skills and Techniques (Libby Peter). 5 hours. My 2 days are split between a climbing day and a training day. I mostly boulder, and currently climb v4/v5. I guess crimping, pockets and finger-stressing boulders beyond 6C/+V5 will still take some time. 5-2 hours on Monday, just climbing to the best of my ability. Of course climbing is the best way to get better at climbing, but more climbing is not always an option. But the core of really hard climbing is usually about 1. you can start training that pretty early since one arm pull up is much For me, training (off the ground lifts) full crimps with a flexed pinky has helped my performance immensely. Endurance training is very recovery intensive, and gains (wrt to climbing) are relatively short lived. Less hangboard, more wall. I almost exclusively boulder (Altho I’m slowly working on my sport climbing), and I shape my strength training around my climbing. yep this is just the initial signs of overuse. In the past I’ve done 4 separate boulders, took a rest, then repeated for 4 sets. And you will probably get an overuse injury if you do campusing if your fingers are not ready. And then 1. Maybe do some training that include climbing but as for training on hangboards or power on a pull up bar etc. I'm currently in this boat. 5-2 hours on Friday, just climbing to the best of my ability. Thanks, dude! I’m a pretty petite 40 year old woman tho. So I've been climbing for about 8 months now and I climb around V4/V5 but I've never actually had proper training or anything aside from watching a couple videos when I first started. I usually mix 2 bouldering sessions a week with gym workouts in between, but wanting to know best sort of workouts that will compliment climbing. If you want to workout to get better at climbing I'd recommend 3 things, 1. If you ignored the pre-written plans and calendars in the Rock Climber's Training Manual, I think that's a really great book on training and climbing harder written by people who've walked the walk. im guessing people take it way too seriously and get sucked in to focusing on improving their metrics instead of just climbing? or is it Anecdotally, I climbed regularly (avg 3x/week) and didn’t do other climbing specific exercise (hangboard, 4x4, etc) and have been able to get to v7 bouldering, 12a lead, and 12c (projecting) top rope without special training regime. Dedicated to increasing all our knowledge about how to better improve at our sport. This makes purely climbing a terrible stand-in for weight training. Hello there fellow climbers! I want to combine my climbing training with weight lifting and a user on r/fitness recommended me to ask you people, so here I am. I also study psychology and am starting a master's in sport psych soon. But I'm craving more! I'd like to have something at home for the nights I can't make it out to climbing. Get a hangboard for home training, it will do wonders for your grip (forearm) strength. Training 1 Monday: trap bar deadlift + overhead press Tuesday: climbing + campusing (strength) Wednesday: squat + bench Thursday: climbing Friday: deadlifts + (weighted) pullups Saturday: rest (/bench + overhead press) Sunday: climbing + campusing (endurance) Training 2 Monday: deadlift+overhead press Tuesday: climbing + campusing (strength also, long before reaching those 180%, many people transition to one arm pull up training because it's generally assumed to be more climbing specific (the way you use your muscles there is a bit more similar since you're really rarely pulling up on something bilaterally). 44 votes, 25 comments. Have browsed through TrainingBeta, ClimbStrong, and Power Company Climbing, and don't really know what I'm looking for. So, a commonly accepted paradigm is to build strength the majority the training season, then build endurance closer to performance phases to max out the usefulness of that strength. Feb 8, 2022 ยท They are the best in the world and training exactly as they train is likely too much for us mere mortals. Hi guys, basically been bouldering coming up to a year now and want to make my training a bit more climbing specific. It's theoretically enough to take two, e. This has meant my pull strength is far greater than is necessary for a climber of my technical ability and finger strength. :) didn’t mean to mislead, what I meant was before I bought the erg, I did a general search here and MP to see if there’s any consensus of using rowing as a cross train for climbing and didn’t find much info. Those statics are only meant to be used one way, they were measurements done on climbers… not hangboarders. Got the 12 weeks program, basically they checked my weaknesses (crimps, flexibility) they structured my climbing better, 2 weeks of climbing 3-4 times per week + weight training and flexibility exercies, and 1 week offload which is just 1 day of climbing. 19 votes, 16 comments. For example, don’t just climb overhang on crimps and pockets back to back days, your fingers will kill. Dedicated to increasing all our… The Rock Climber’s Exercise Guide contains everything essential for building a training plan including stability and antagonist training for injury prevention minus the “filler” content like psychology, eating, climbing technique… read a lot, liked this the most. edit: I just wanted to point out that in trying to make the point that isometric training is generally preferable for climbing I implied that it doesn't train your muscles. Applying pressure to the injured area still hurts a little bit. Dedicated to increasing all our… Training campusing after climbing just 4 months is a waste of time, fingerstrength and technique is the biggest weakness i see in newer climbers. Just giving someone a plan and walking away would be a slap in the face of the whole idea of coaching, which to me is to establish a relationship, gently help the climber with self-discovery, educate them on sports science, tactics, psychology, and grow with them. Accompanied by Youtube videos to support the exercises. Can be projecting, volume, limit bouldering, flashing etc. 173K subscribers in the climbharder community. Unfortunately my gym is somewhat far and being a single mom, I have a hard time making it to the climbing gym more than twice a week. Finger strength rules everything in climbing, and that's just never hit correctly in regular weight training. I had a hip/back injury a couple months back and have slowly been getting back to the gym. You need to have a strong core for slopers in order to minimize any swinging or to hold your body close to the wall. Since climbing is already super intense, I’d try to focus on the 3-8 rep range for heavy compounds (squat, bench, weighted pull up, etc) followed up with some lighter accessory work. Rest wise I tried to avoid training consecutive days, and almost always had one and sometimes two rest days between training/climbing sessions. When it comes to improving physique at that level, rock climbing is really a hindrance and guys like them look good in spite of the sacrifices they make for climbing performance, not because of them. genuine question, whats the problem with it? in my mind its just a test for somewhat interesting information, nothing beyond that. Doing Antagonist training to get stronger for climbing is one possibility as you can target certain muscle groups and plan your progression. read 9 out of 10 climbers make the same mistakes. If they focused on just looks they would look much more jacked and whatnot much easier. I suspect by swapping out gym time for climbing time, you'll see a greater increase in ability. 1. Video: Training Day of Adam Ondra; Video: Climb Like Chris Sharma: His Tips, Part 1; Alex Puccio on Training, Bodyweight and Crowdfunding; Alex Megos’ Single Best Training Tip; Training with Alex Honnold: How the free-climbing rock star This is the first time I've spent time training for climbing, rather than training generally for bodyweight exercises or powerlifting style programming, and then climbing on the side. The best workout routine for rock climbing is rock climbing a lot, but I know what you mean about schedule getting in the way. This 100%! Technique and body position. V6/5. Members Online. The benefit of just climbing is that you train almost everything so up to intermediate level I think its best to have the majority of your training being just climbing. I also have short pinkies, but when watching back some of my climbing videos about 50% of my full crimps have flexed pinkies. My friend suggested I get a pull-up bar Reddit's rock climbing training community. They specifically requested workouts they can do at home to supplement what climbing they can fit in. You also need a lot of open hand strength. The 80% test gives you information about the anaerobic alactic system (PCr based). Gimme Kraft: Effective Climbing Training, Matros (german climbing team workouts) Supertraining, Verkhoshansky (origination of plyometrics) Becoming a Supple Leopard Starrett, Cordoza Overcoming Gravity: A Systematic Approach to Gymnastics and Bodyweight Strength, Low Squat: Climbing tends to emphasis single leg strength, so pistol squats are king Hip hinge: Deadlift Explosive full body movement: KB swings, Turkish Get Ups, etc. My training days are finger strength, flexibility, and upper body. Lifting edge training only, starting on week 1 with a very light load of 2kg in front 3 drag Density hang lifts - 6 sets of 30 second holds. Once you progress in your climbing, that's where I'd spent my time with supplemental exercises to work on getting stronger for climbing. zoegyg voaf wmsz hbcdw qoqmq gddhe uwin ogijvhz ejgk sfhama