Alpine savy But, IFMGA Guide Dale Remsberg says yes; but to use the shelf, a load needs to be clipped into the master carabiner, so the shelf is best used to belay from. So having most of them over my shoulder doesn't work well. You also get to bend the normal anchor building rules a bit. headlamp. (Semmel, Würtl, Hornsteiner 2019), an explainer from John Godino of Alpine Savvy (2019) and endorsement from national alpine clubs, such as the Deutscher Alpenverein (DAV) (Semmel 2019b, Semmel 2020). Rainier National Park made a clever decision matrix to help remove some emotion from this important choice. This post covers: anchor shelf on a tree, “casting” (not throwing) a rappel rope, block leading tip, proper tails on flat overhand knots, and a caution on girth hitched rappel rings. Dec 3, 2024 · Method #3: Alpine block and tackle Want to learn about the alpine block and tackle, and see a video of how to set it up for crevasse rescue equalization? (Sure you do!) Join my Premium Membership to read the whole article. Feb 27, 2025 · Retreat (aka bail) anchors need to be strong enough for a rappel, use a minimum of gear and cordage, and be simple to rig. Learn all about the Tibloc, starting with how to properly pronounce it! Dec 27, 2018 · The munter mule overhand, or MMO knot, is a load releasable hitch. Feb 2, 2019 · Note - This post discusses techniques and methods used in vertical rope work. Knots, Beginners John Godino 5/6/19 Knots, Beginners John Godino 5/6/19. ) Premium Art Share your videos with friends, family, and the world May 6, 2020 · Carabiner rating overview: To attain the CE (“Conformité Européene”) safety rating, carabiners are tested in three loading configurations: along the spine (major axis), gate open, and minor axis (aka, cross loaded). Inspiring mountain photography. This triples up the webbing material, shortening your runner to a manageable length. with only few or questionable intermediate fixing points, traverses, confusing route courses or the possibility of far, uncontrolled falls. Feb 22, 2023 · The retraced figure 8 is probably the most important knot you'll ever tie, so let’s learn the nuances of tying it correctly, every time. Nov 15, 2020 · This is per the recommendation of the American Alpine Club. Many of the tips here are appropriate only for those with prior experience. thermos for hot water/tea. Curated instructional videos. (This is a free preview from Mark's new online class class on alpine climbing. The Alpine Club of Italy did some testing, here are the answers. Some older methods are cumbersome, slow to set up, and add unnecessary clutter. if the stance is more marginal, you can tie a one handed clove hitch to attach yourself directly to one bolt. helmet. Most major gear companies offer some version of a tool tether. e. Oct 24, 2018 · Using a cordelette is standard practice for many climbers when building multi-piece gear anchors. With 3 (or more) people, a pre-rigged rappel lets two people rappel at one time, each on a single fixed strand. This translates to ultra-caution in all parts of your hauling system and interaction with bags, haul lines, docking cords, and pulleys. With modern tools like a progress capture pulley and micro ascenders, crevasse rescue is usually faster and simpler. extra wool hat. Cost is about $5 in materials, and five minutes of your time with basic hand tools. Nov 8, 2023 · Method #3: Alpine block and tackle Want to learn about the alpine block and tackle, and see a video of how to set it up for crevasse rescue equalization? (Sure you do!) Join my Premium Membership to read the whole article. May 2, 2024 · Petzl makes a nice family of pulleys with the surname “Traxion”. Click around south of Australia in Antarctica, and see why compasses are often useless for polar explorers - near the northern and southern magnetic poles, compasses start doing some pretty crazy things! Feb 8, 2024 · The anchor belay method, however, is the more recommendable belay method in routes with a more alpine character, i. Apr 14, 2025 · Quick tips on best practices, with links to my detailed articles. So I decided to spin out on my own - Savvy Alpine was born. Aug 24, 2024 · You may find yourself in a climbing situation where you need to transfer a BIG load from one anchor point to another. Here’s a DIY alternative; make your own for about 30 minutes of time and $10 in materials. While these are some great tips for beginners, even you crafty veterans may learn a few new things. Alpine Savvy Feb 21 Here's a great way to practice anchors. Premium Members get even more. However, there are some nuances to doing it correctly, efficiently, and with reduced risk. For single pitch routes, “open” anchor hardware like a hook or carabiner lets the last person to simply clip and lower off; more efficient and lower risk. Climb better, smarter, and safer with Alpinesavvy. puffy coat for added warmth or as an emergency layer. Over 500 FREE tips and navigation resources for climbing and mountaineering. They all share a few common design elements: a spring-loaded toothed cam that lets the rope (or device) move in one direction but not the other, and a high efficiency, sealed bearing steel pulley wheel (aka sheave). Check out the “snap bowline”, where a slip knot and little bit of rope sorcery Dec 5, 2020 · Anchor 5 -Now we're getting into alpine anchors, with “2 fragile fixed points”. If the shelf is an anchor point for a climber, you Be it challenging weather, poor conditions, route finding errors, or general loss of mojo (a. sunscreen & lip balm Oct 16, 2020 · Thanks to AMGA Certified Rock Guide and Assistant Alpine Guide Derek DeBruin for assistance with this article. Check it out Nov 17, 2018 · It's fun to click around in places that have some pretty crazy declination, such as New Zealand and up in northern Alaska and Canada. Yes, the same one you use to tie two ropes together to rappel. probe (ideally 300cm long) Leatherman multi-tool. Originally inspired by this Alpine Savy Post, I've redesigned my system with 3 different materials. Jun 21, 2019 · Despite access to solid weather forecasts, deciding to continue on a climb or bail is often a challenging and subjective decision. As we like to say at Alpine Savvy, most any sort of hands on skill like learning a knot is a Jul 20, 2018 · Alpine Tips. But, many people it tricky; the “rabbit coming out of the hole and running around the tree” thing is not as easy as it might sound. No sliding X, so no chance of suddenly loading the remaining anchor. Beginner big wall climbers, you know what I'm talking about; you clipped the haul bag in the wrong spot and it needs to get moved, whoops! Nov 2, 2022 · Pro tip: If you're doing an alpine start, rig your your rope with knots and coils the night before. . Double it, tie two a figure 8 or overhand knots (with the stitching in one of the end loops), and then use two strands to make an anchor for both toproping and multipitch. Learn the tricks to make a perfect figure 8, plus how to do it so it's much easier Apr 24, 2025 · Note - This post discusses techniques and methods used in vertical rope work. Want to learn some snow climbing tips from the guy who founded the American Alpine Institute and former president of the American American Guide Association (AMGA)? We thought so. Feb 3, 2019 · For alpine climbing, you want the Micro. Chain link fences are everywhere They can hold your full bodyweight You can easily change the height and width to whatever you want With a pair of 8 mm quick links, you can rig up a rappel station to practice transitions Clip a few carabiners as anchor points to practice 3 or 116K Followers, 651 Following, 1,010 Posts - John Godino | Helping you climb better, safer and smarter (@alpinesavvy) on Instagram: " ️ 550+ climbing tips on website ️ No ads, paid promotions or other fluff ️ Get a free sampler of top Premium articles ⤵️" Apr 15, 2023 · John Godino has been consistently creating climbing and navigation content for years on his website https://www. Jun 7, 2024 · Well, here’s the modern iteration of that idea, in a much lighter and more compact package. Caution: Don't do this on “open” anchor hardware (like anchor hooks) This technique should only be used on “closed” anchor hardware , such as a ring, quick link, or chain, where there is no possibility of the rope coming unclipped. Apparently the German Alpine Club (DAV) thinks not; I’m looking for a technical recommendation on that, stay tuned. Mar 5, 2024 · Note - This post discusses techniques and methods used in vertical rope work. Learn where you can maybe cut a few corners and see examples here. If you’re doing a 1:1 haul of fairly heavy bags on a big wall climb, you probably want a slightly larger diameter pulley wheel to get a small increase in efficiency. Thanks for your support! Oct 2, 2009 · On routes that wander a lot (primarily alpine) I won't triple up my runners. Feb 2, 2025 · Warning: Climbing is dangerous. Download GPS tracks for more than 70 routes in the Pacific Northwest. Mar 8, 2023 · As I've been getting back into climbing over the last year, I've had an odd obsession with coming up with a "Perfect" PAS and rap extension. This website offers information and ideas (not advice) intended to reduce your risk when climbing. a. Sep 27, 2019 · Hmm Sort of. An overhand knot on the left, and a girth hitch on the right. Rather than using a huge honker cordelette, instead you use a Dyneema sling; I prefer 180 cm. Jan 10, 2019 · Bonus speed trick: the safer simul rappel. Carabiner inside the master point knot If you clip a carabiner inside the master Jan 2, 2023 · There are many different approaches to crevasse rescue. goggles. (See, your German is getting better already!) “Standard for load distribution. Nope, this is not a tip for alpine climbing, but it might come in handy next time you do a road trip. That was far from our normal work though, and we were dealing mostly with big government agencies, whereas I really wanted to work with small businesses. . Premium Article available Hmm Sort of. Connect with Derek: Facebook and Instagram Also, thanks to Blake Harrington for this article which covers some of the same key points made in this one. Always practice vertical rope techniques under the supervision of a qualified instructor, and ideally in a progression: from flat ground, to staircase, to vertical close to the ground before you ever try them in a real climbing situation. ” Notice, static equalization only. There's more to it than what’s usually taught in books and by many instructors. A simple trick is this method, best described with a photo. See some examples, and lear Jun 17, 2023 · Note - This post discusses techniques and methods used in vertical rope work. It's one less thing to do at 0:dark:30 by headlamp when you're sleepy. “ Apr 16, 2023 · When you arrive at a bolted anchor, and the stance is fairly small, a good first step is often to clip a quickdraw. Jun 2, 2024 · Note - This post discusses techniques and methods used in vertical rope work. Generally, it's best practice to have all team members clip to a knot with a locking carabiner, rather than tying the rope through the harness. If the shelf is an anchor point for a climber, you Sep 1, 2021 · Ever bailed from a sport route? If not, it's probably going to happen someday, and when it does, you’ll need to have a retreat strategy. However, for climbs much longer than this, or a team of three, or when you or your teammate are significantly lighter than the bags, or if the hauling is on terrain less then vertical, or maybe when you simply want to suffer a lot less, you may well want to add some mechanical Apr 2, 2023 · Anchors with a “closed” metal chain or ring at the bottom require MANY steps when transitioning to a lower or rappel. Always practice vertical rope techniques under the supervision of an experienced climber, and ideally in a progression: from flat ground, to staircase, to vertical close to the ground before you ever try them in a real climbing situation. While it can be helpful in advanced rope rescue scenarios, it’s not required in crevasse rescue, and in the opinion of various experts, does not need to be taught to beginners. Learn all about it here. extra buff. I'll start by saying I am very aware how divisive PAS can be in general, and I know I am overcomplicating Alpine Savvy s d r o p o t S e n g e u 5 8 u g 8 r , l m i 8 2 u f F a 7 5 i f 0 8 1 f 2 c 0 f 0 0 g y b 2 2 3 2 1 5 f 0 2 l 2 r · Shared with Public With nothing more than a cordelette and two carabiners, the “alpine block and tackle” creates a bit of mechanical advantage that can help you move a large load a short distance. Learn a few here. downhill gloves. (Premium Members can read all of ‘em. Thanks for your support! Aug 25, 2022 · A few words on hauling, from big wall expert Andy Kirkpatrick: “Hauling is potentially one of the most dangerous aspects of big wall climbing. When you bail from a route, be at a one pitch sport climb or an alpine multipitch, the objectives are similar: Get to the ground in one piece, with each anchor point strong enough but not overbuilt, and leave a minimum of gear behind. They cost around $50. I’ve also grown to 110K+ Instagram followers from all over the world, and that has led to some great connections. I'll just loop a bunch over my shoulder. k. Here are some desert tested tIps for keeping your cooler organized, clean, and preserving your ice on longer trips where ice resupply is not an option. Jun 28, 2022 · Check out what IFMGA Certified Guide Mark Smiley takes for a two day Rainier climb up one of the standard routes. Eventually some projects surfaced where I could really get into my ultimate passion - websites, apps, some server automation. com/ and his instagram https://w Ice tool tethers are pretty standard on longer alpine routes for good reason - a dropped tool from on a long, high route can be a serious problem. If you have a decent place to stand, you might only need to clip the rope to the draw. Maybe 3-4 per pitch at most. Nov 24, 2023 · Alpine Threadworks rescue sled & bivy. Maybe. Let's look at some techniques and video from pr Dec 17, 2018 · On big wall climbs taking two or three days with a team of two, you can probably use a traditional 1:1 hauling system. ” previously known as the Euro Death Knot, of EDK). On normal gear routes I don't find that I need to extend that many pieces with more than a quickdraw/tripled runner. alpinesavvy. “ambition exceeding ability”), there can be lots of valid reasons to turn aro Mar 29, 2019 · Yes, an overhand knot. (If you want to get technical it's a “flat overhand bend. If you do them wrong, you could die. May 17, 2024 · Using a skinny pull cord, in combination with a regular climbing rope, allows full length rappels with reduced gear and pack weight. Jul 30, 2018 · Answer: the “alpine quickdraw”. Feb 7, 2023 · Stay sharp and practice your anchor skills! If you have a simple training board like this, you can rig up just about anything you can imagine: top rope anchors, rappel transitions, multipitch, and more. But, there’s a few more tricks than the standard set up that can make your life easier. Trew Gear Anorak shell. While the technique does not supplant existing fixed-point belay and fixed-leg load Jul 15, 2019 · The bowline can be a helpful knot for climbers to fix a rope around a tree or boulder. The climbing rangers at Mt. rescue shovel. Since 2018, after putting in thousands of hours and posting over 550 articles, I’m proud to say it’s the largest and most detailed collection of alpine climbing tips available, anywhere. Aug 4, 2020 · The Petzl Tibloc, an ultralight emergency ascender, is a very handy piece of gear. \bThere are are lots of crafty ways to use it that may be new to you, and also some common mistakes you want to avoid. vclxr tmuhlt lqgrg ghztarc nsgyjq uryqj ckbofk fhggk oywabn wqycvva ybitnu arbovfms rxm stjr qwbap