Best climbing sling lengths reddit.

• Best climbing sling lengths reddit 5 C4 = 12 kN), you should feel safe top roping on the cordelette. Holy shit it's so nice for anchors. Sport climbers often buy pre-made quickdraws that are available with different-length slings: 10 - 12cm slings: These short-length slings work in most situations when the route is relatively straight. Rope is dynamic but a factor two on a short length is still going to be uncomfortable. ) are good for looping large rocks and for connecting three protection points to Nov 1, 2024 · Slings. -quad length sling. I’m looking into getting into more alpine climbing so I was wondering what’s best for me moving on. I have only had to use the two 30s together once when the hangers were removed from a set of anchors and had to sling a block that was well back from the edge of the climb. The home of Climbing on reddit. Keep slack out of your static anchors. The slings that performed the best at our Alpine Quickdraw Test were the ones that are thinner and less bulky than all of the others, so that the least amount of friction between different loops of the sling or the carabiner make it easier to equalize the sling to the proper length. Longer slings can be clipped from lower (provided the draws are already hanging), a great advantage depending on the route. On the up, it can be used to extend. Nov 1, 2024 · Sling is wider at the bottom to facilitate grabbing, stiff sling: Dual keylock carabiners, wide sling: Large carabiners good for big hands or gloves, easy to clip: Double hot-forged wiregate with a rubber keeper on the lower biner: MonoFil Keylock gate, comes in four options with different length slings and carabiner sizes. Rappel Length: You'll also need to consider the length of rappels on the routes you're climbing. The D:d ratio comments above are valid, but are usually spoken about in terms of wire rope. I carry 21' of 7mm cord because i feel it can handle all of these applications and gives me the best options for extending belays, finding comfortable stances, etc. The only concern I have is the length of the bunny ears. The clipping feel is incredible. All in all the draw weighs in at 60 grams. Extra long extension or anchors. -Prussik cord with a locker. But 99 times out of 100 I'll pick dynema Someone said I need slings (to hold my weight on the anchors instead of the rope) but I'm not sure what I should purchase for that. Usually bring 8-10 alpine shoulder length draws, 3 double length slings with carabiners over the shoulder ( for extension, anchor building, slinging shit, and rap tether), and often like 4 regular lightweight sport draws. May 18, 2021 · Clip both carabiners to your sling; Pass one carabiner through the other; Clip the passed-through ‘biner onto both strands of the sling; And that’s it. Equalization is a myth - especially dynamic I also really like to keep 1 or 2 lengths of cord, still 6 mm, About the same loop length of a shoulder length sling because I could use that as an Emergency runner if I need to. Depends on your local climbing area. Yeah, this is probably the best way. Personally, I have a 7mm, 6mm, and 240mm sling in my closet since I like variety and they're inexpensive as far as trad climbing gear goes. Just don't go climbing over it full length, and falling directly on it (although it could probably take that). The discussion over nylon vs. If that is not an option for whatever reason then I use whatever slings I have available on my harness. Reply reply I like the space that it frees up on the harness, and also the added location to grab a sling when needed. Best of Reddit; Topics; Content Policy Go back to rei and find the climbing section where they cut rope to length. I always carry prussik cord with me when climbing outdoors, because I like the option to go hands free on rappel, and have anchor building material. Dyneema. Sure you could top rope off of it no problem but for multi pitch sport I would always use a longer cord to tie a quad. keeps them from snagging the gear in the bag or making huge rat's nests. shoulder lengths (1 locker apiece), 2 sport draws, 25' of cordelette, at least one of the dbl shoulder slings from knotted tube webbing. Clip another QD between the bolts. Also, if you really don't trust the bolts you shouldn't be climbing on them. It's definitely possible but tying a quad with a double length doesn't leave you with much space to work with. I was fully picturing a 120cm in my head. I tend to use slings or cord when leading in blocks and use the rope when swinging leads. What are common sling lengths folks find useful for tree work? I have a bunch of webbing and I’d like to make some beer-knotted slings. As others have said. I carry 4-6 25cm quickdraws for clipping nuts/tricams/bolts. And if you are dealing with 2 nonlocking QDs when cleaning, clip PAS to 1 bolt. With the ‘biners pulled in opposite directions, the result is a tripled sling about the length of a conventional quickdraw. Also make sure you understand the various sling tension / sling angle configurations and use what is best for your given situation. Very versatile edit for clarity: The smaller your friction knot diameter is the more it Bites. It can be racked in just the same way. Otherwise use a master point (an 8 is better than an overhand if you have the slack, easier to untie). And I'll have a prussik backup onto the rope below the belay/rappel device, so its kinda redundant anyway. -double length sling. Thanks in advance, everyone. Also slings tend to last quite a long time - I have had mine for at least a thousand pitches of climbing and they are holding up. 3M subscribers in the climbing community. Its jus so easy to go "clip-clip-clip-PullDown-MasterpointKnot-Done" and I always carry a few extra double length slings in case of something like having to build a four or five piece anchor. In short, nylon is heavier and stretchier, while dyneema slings are lighter, less absorbent, and more slippery. Most people I know use a sling or two to clip into the anchor setup. Slings are static so a factor two is going to be disastrous. I am a fan of Sterling power cord after only one climb. I would make them longer and the "power point" shorter. Just make sure you’re checking the anchor every time you come up to it, or at regular intervals. While the shorter length is perhaps more common, the longer length is certainly more versatile. On longish trad routes or multipitch I usually do both and split it pretty even between over-the-shoulder nylon slings with a wiregate each and the rest as dyneema alpine draws. Nov 1, 2024 · Slings. For an alpine rack I would carry less cams, more nuts, some 60cm alpine qd and two 120cm slings with biners clipped end to end around chest. Edit: ignore me, my bad. If the 1st blows your gonna take a bit of a fall onto the second. This is the best climbing video Dynema is amazing. Whatever your needs are, there’s a quickdraw optimized for you. Get 20-30' of climbing spec 7mm static line and You can get trad draws in various lengths, nice 25cm long ones are better than alpine draws unless you want to extend. , your body weight, from the climbing rope onto the fixed anchor. I'm also assuming you're talking about polyester round slings, rather than climbing slings? Favorite sling is the Mammut Contact 8mm as its stitching is snag free. Personal preference, I guess. 17 - 18cm slings: These medium-length slings are useful for reducing rope drag, especially when the route is more than 12 quickdraws long or if In my opinion, the only reason to use a sliding x is if you're climbing multiple routes on the same anchors and need the direction of pull to change. dyneema slings is a long one and worth reading up on. What should my next quickdraw purchases be? Individuals with different lengths of webbing? 305 votes, 96 comments. A single can work over most 4x6 rigs but is often tight to do with 1 beaner. Some areas may have bolted anchors that are easily accessible, in which case you'll just need slings and some more biners. Double-length slings (120cm/48 in. Mammut contact sling is my personal favorite. A friend also recommended an autoblock for added safety which seems like a good idea. I only use it for static protection though, I would never use a sling as a PAS if I wanted to work on a particular section of a climb off belay, for example - although it would probably hold, other systems transfer much less energy to the last point of security, such as a PAS made from dynamic rope. I just bought a 120 cm sling for use in an extended rappel. How many cams and alpine qd depends on how hard the climb would be, but general scrambling with some small pitch climbing around 4 cams and 6 qd, but I' for slings the bare minimum i'l have in my pack is: 8 shoulder lengths (2 with light weight lockers), 2-4 dbl. Best is to have 100% full time monitoring but that’s not possible. Keeps the front 4 loops clear for cams/nuts and slings while I climb. 8mm and just ordered a Black Diamond Positron Quickpack (12cm slings). Then, you can untie your climbing knots and use the rope to rig the rappel. Clove/8/Bowline/etc. Reddit attracts a lot of know it alls. I recently bought a cordelette so I rarely use the 10 foot webbing anymore but they were handy if anchors were set back slightly and a double length sling wasn't enough. com Sep 1, 2023 · Our climbing testers have put these slings to the test on giant alpine routes in the Bugaboos, huge classic multi-pitch routes in Red Rocks, and on many fun days on the rocks in between, assessing and rating them along the way for optimal performance. There are a variety of different models which combine variations of carabiners and slings (also called “dogbones”). Stuff like prusiks, gloves, belay plate and a nanotrax+tiblock for rescue. -2 HMS style lockers for clove hitches. All my alpine draws are dynema and my favourite piece of rack is my quad length dynema sling. I've never seen anybody preclip gear to slings, bandolier style or with quick/alpine draws. Like everyone else, the Petzl Djinn are my favorite so far. Drop the quad and just run the rope through the lockers on the slings - just like you would TR through two quickdraws. I have a big background in backpacking and long hikes. Your illustration is perfectly safe, but way more complex than it needs to be. If you want a full set of light trad/alpine sling- and quickdraws for cheap I warmly recommend looking for sales of rack packs of light biners (CAMP NANO, Edelrid 19G etc), 60cm dyneema slings and 17cm Petzl Ange S/L or BD OZ The only concern I have is the length of the bunny ears. . Alpines are very flexible though, use them as normal draws, extenders and remember they are a sling so good for using as a sling, threads or building your anchor. For an all-around sling, go with 120cm nylon. I don't mess with alpine draws at all because almost all of my placements are cams and if I extend those placements, I always use a full 60cm sling to do so. View community ranking In the Top 1% of largest communities on Reddit. 240mm dyneema/nylon sling is also great, especially if you're not worried about complicated belay stations. Different quantities/lengths of cord or sling. As an aside I don't think anyone outside of totally new climbers pay full price for slings. Long enough to build and anchor and tie a knot in so you can clip two bolts when using as a PAS. e. Adjama Is my go to as well. 240cm is plenty of Two Point Ice Screw Anchors - 10mm Dyneema Sling setup as a quad Glacier Travel Prussics - 6mm Nylon (Anything thicker won't bite well on the rope generally) 24" Picket - 10mm Dyneema Sling 120cm in length girth hitched The home of Climbing on reddit. The ease of adjustment is really the best part, unlike the Metolius PAS you don't have to unclip anything to shorten or extend your distance to your anchor which is great. I climb in the Gunks where there is a fair mix of tree anchors, bolted anchors, and gear anchors. If shoulder or double length slings aren't long enough, use your untied cordalette instead. This has generally been sufficient for the multi-pitch routes I've done. 148 votes, 154 comments. I also like the trick where I have one or two double lengths over the opposite shoulder, doubled up with a carabiner and under the single length sling-sling. It is only one gram heavier than the two lightest slings, the Mammut Contact Sling and the Petzl Pur'Anneau Sling. 1. So I love take photos but I often find the weight of the camera to be too much weight to carry around my neck for too long… Hey lots of the comments are harsh. Two reasons: 1)If the bolts are spaced further apart it is possible to create an obtuse triangle between the knot, creating greater forces at the knot and on the bolts. I have pretty much all of the rest of the gear for sport climbing though. If the pieces are far from each other, I might build a mini anchor (sliding X) on 2 of the pieces w/ a double length sling to extend them a bit. Generally you never need a 240 sling if you're able to be creative with anchor building, but a lot of people like them because it can help simplify things. ) give you greater extension for reducing rope drag or positioning pro; a perfect size for building two-bolt, fixed anchors, they can be worn doubled over a shoulder or as an alpine quickdraw. The rope should be fine unless you are climbing the full length of the rope and don't have an extra length to make the anchor. So currently I use a pre built quad with a 120cm sling for sport climbing. I still carry a double length nylon for a person anchor or if I need something maybe a bit more abrasion resistant. Read on for the best recommendations. Mar 3, 2023 · While all climbing quickdraws adhere to UIAA standards, certain models perform better than others with things like bent gate carabiners and keylock noses. On the up, the locker doubles as the locker for my ATC in guide mode, the prusik can double as an extra sling if I run out. They are heavy, but burly. The single-length sling is, technically, non-redundant, but so is the belay loop, rappel device and biner, and rope, and the 22kn sling is wild overkill for the forces involved in the rappel. It could be better. I use a 240 centimeter sling for trad anchors and it works for many different types of anchors as well as being lighter than the same amount of cord. The 5th loop holds all of my nonsense gear that I carry for non climbing/emergencies. I recently got a Tusk Superdry 9. 30 meters seems like a lot of material for an anchor considering most ropes for climbing are 60-70m. My favorite sling for multipitch trad anchors is the rope I am climbing on. In nylon slings, the diameter of the nylon fibres inside the sling is tiny, so you can get away with much sharper bends, like shackle pins etc. of tubular 1" webbing and cut it into lengths to make you own double length, or even larger, tied slings. As a general guideline, having at least 15-20 feet (4. On the down this is used to extend my rappel. Yeh it's fine, I just girth hitch one through my tie-in loop with a carabiner the other end. We tested the 60cm double-length version of this sling and weighed it at 20g, tied with the Trango Low Bulk 11 Sling as the second lightest of all that we have tested. to a locker on each bolt and tie a BFK. If you’re considering slings for hanging a ring to a hard point, I usually carry at least one single length and one double. That or a miriad of things a typical sport climber already should have with them. Quickdraws have a fixed length sling, but most come in either 12cm or 18cm lengths, which you get to choose. For top roping, you can buy about 40 ft. You can usually get them 40% off if you shop the sales. 5-6 meters) of webbing can provide you with versatility in constructing anchors. Then I take my double lengths, fold in half, and then overhand them all together. I haven't used really expensive ones like the Spirits or the BD Livewire and don't really feel like I'm missing anything. As one of the lightest slings available, this is a great choice In terms of racking it's really not that much different from having a PAS and a sling (or two slings) as personal anchors. This. Will deploy… I personally dont like using sport draws for trad climbing so I carry 10 regular shoulder length slings and 2 double length slings on longer stuff, all racked with 2 carabiners on my harness. Just wondering how many Alpine Draws, Quick Draws, and Single-Biner slings you guys carry for normal single pitch cragging? I normally have 5 single length alpines, 1 double length alpine, and one single length alpine with lockers on my harness - no empty or single biner slings or QDs. Or two singles. I say nylon because it has some elasticity if you accidentally shock load it. As far as brands go, I absolutely recommend the mammut dyneema slings. The doubles are accessed by unclipping and pulling out from under the single length. And yes we are scared of falling. I extend my cam placements with 60cm slings racked over-the-shoulder with a single carabiner clipped in. Just one double length Alpine draw made with a sewn sling can be used in so so so many ways. Jul 10, 2023 · For example, in a multi-pitch climbing scenario where you plan to descend on the fixed anchors you just used for climbing the last pitch, rigging a rappel involves transferring the load, i. Beginner Sport Climbing Gear Checklist a double length sling to extend your rappel with an I've been leading indoors for a few months and I'm super pumped about doing some sport outdoors. While in the pack to-and-from the crag, I take all the shoulder length slings and stack them together and tie a big overhand knot in the middle with them. it depends on where you're climbing. Additionally, the length should allow you to extend the rappel anchor away from any potential rope drag or hazards. Extra-long slings (180-240cm/72-96 in. At ~5 bucks a sling you can get 10 for 50 and be set for a normal rack. See full list on outdoorgearlab. If you feel safe taking lead falls on cams (BD 0. It’s a good enough anchor. I, personally, LOVE using a cordalette (or triple length sling). Aug 31, 2020 · Petzl ANNEAU Polyester Sling; How to Choose the Best Climbing Slings for Your Needs Nylon vs. qcczz drio jvgyke znijvc szt zhxlpqwz ycwoyq pycav rmjxpt vvn csqckhbc rna segq qahcb cwny